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When to Harvest Vegetables

Where and When To Start Your Garden
by Jill Manzoni

When can I get started? What should I plant first and where? Here are some easy answers to remember for starting your garden.

Everyone wants to know-When can I get started? The answer depends on several things, including whether the crop grows best in cool or warm weather, when the last spring frost and first fall frost occur in your area, and the length of your growing season.

Find seeds for $.01 and even get a free gift with any purchase. Or just get your free seed catalogue here!

To learn more about gardening with children, you may read the next article in this series, or visit 4HomeSchool.Info

Why Children Should Garden
by Jill Manzoni

Kids love gardening, and love being outdoors in dirt. Most of all, they love to do constructive things. They are also impatient and restless, and want immediate gratification.
Kids love gardening, and love being outdoors in dirt. Most of all, they love to do constructive things. They are also impatient and restless, and want immediate gratification. You must keep the interest high and the learning within their skill level. Here is a simple three things to remember.

To learn more about gardening with children, you may read the next article in this series, or visit 4HomeSchool.Info

No matter your location, wintertime is not a stagnant season for the gardener. From covering or moving plants indoors at the first frost, to planning next spring's array of color and greenery, horticulturists say there is plenty of gardening to do in winter months.

"If you live in the South, Southeast or in Southern California, gardening can be a year-round affair," explained Mark Malaguerra, manager of Pike Family Nurseries and Garden Centers in Atlanta. "There's something that can be done in the garden almost every month."

Malaguerra said that even those areas can occasionally have a plant-damaging hard freeze, but in a lot of areas, there's something in bloom in the garden every month of the year. In Dec., Jan., and Feb., winter flowering shrubs, pansies, very early winter bulbs, and early flowering perennials become winter gardening staples, he said.

In areas of extreme cold and winter weather, there's very little work to do in the garden because the ground is generally frozen or under a deep blanket of snow.

"You can do a little pruning on your woody ornamentals, but even that can be hard if you have a deep layer of snow," he said.

Even if you can't get outside, experts say there are plenty of gardening or gardening-related activities to be done inside.

"Winter is also a time to start planning future gardens," Malaguerra said, adding that a lot of people plant a lot of trees and shrubs in winter. "A lot of the seed companies start sending out their catalogues right after the new year and people start preparing what they're going to do in their garden."

Winter is also good time to bring gardening inside with forced bulbs like tulips, daffodils, crocus, and paperwhites. Garden enthusiasts can also make a plant 'wish list,' and start plants from seeds that will be moved when come spring.

Amy Stone, extension agent of horticulture at Ohio State University in Toledo, recommends planning for next winter when planting for spring.

"Think of plans that have winter interest, like ornamental grasses. Or maybe plant trees with interesting bark, that way when they lose their leaves, there is still interest year-round," she said. "Winter's a great time to resource and research for your garden."

While this winter's delay has affected shopping patterns, it has also skewed blooming cycles of plants and prompted concern among those with green thumbs.

"People are very concerned that tulip bulbs are pushing up, and there will be a little bit of damage, but what we found is that because the ground system isn't frozen, a healthier plant is ready to push growth in spring because of this extended time period. It lets roots get stronger, and the better root system you have, the stronger the plant."

Cut Down On Weeds!
by Jill Manzoni

Here's how you could rid yourself of weeds once and for all!

You can cut down on lots of work for the entire season just by doing a little extra now.

Scattered throughout the soil are thousands of tiny, almost invisible, weed seeds. Weed seeds are deep in the soil and many do not have the strength to push up through a lot of soil. Each time the soil is worked, hundreds more of these weed seeds are brought up close to the surface of the soil where it's warm, moist, and a short step to the sun. It is here in their "germination zone" where they will sprout. If you work the soil again a few days later, it can eliminate those weeds that have sprouted, by bringing them up into the sunlight or by burying them deep in the soil. This gets rid of many weeds, but a few more are foraged to the surface in the process. If you continue to turn the soil every few days, you can rid the area of hundreds of them just as they start to sprout.

By planting day, a large number of potential weeds will be gone. When it is time to plant, you can work the soil once again, often just a few minutes before getting my seeds in the ground. This last tilling eliminates any weeds sprouting in the germination zone.

Remember, tilling or hoeing wet soil will make large clumps, and much of the time will take out too much of the oxygen to the soil Wait until the soil is dry enough that it does not clump together.

Planning Early For Sooner Harvests
by Jill Manzoni

Did you know that you could start your garden when there is still snow on the ground? No, I am not crazy! Come see how.

Did you know that you could start your garden when there is still snow on the ground? No, I am not crazy! Start plants indoors, and they will be ready for early planting.

A few good reasons to do this are you will get earlier harvests of many more crops and as your growing season has increased, you can plant more plantings in the season. In northern parts of the country, if you want tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or big onions, you need indoor-started plants, and you will be amazed at all the vegetables and varieties to choose from. Greenhouses usually have four or five kinds of tomato plants on sale in the spring, perhaps Jet Star, Better Boy, Morton, and a couple of others. Some seed catalogues will have up to 40 or more varieties-all the way from the tiny Patio to the giant Beefsteak.

Another bonus to growing your own indoor starts for your garden is that instead of buying from others at ridiculously marked up prices, you get 100 seeds for the price of one of their plants.

Here is another good reason for starting your own seeds. Buying plants from a nursery is convenient, of course, but how well have those plants been cared for? Have they been fed the appropriate nutrients? Are they free from insects and diseases? You would know all this if you start your own.

You will be happier in the end by planting your own, as you will have peace of mind, larger choices and varieties. In addition, you will have more nutritious foods-as you have maintained them.

Echinacea, The Total Immune Booster
by Jill Manzoni

Did you know that using Echinacea is not a new thing? It used to be in all the medicine cabinets up until the development of antibiotics in the 1940's. It has recently made a comeback.
Did you know that using Echinacea is not a new thing? It used to be in all the medicine cabinets up until the development of antibiotics in the 1940's. It has recently made a comeback. Scientists have found that it fights numerous infections that antibiotics can't touch, with no risk of resistance or side effects. More impressive, it's been shown to help prevent and even treat some common and annoying respiratory infections.

Echinacea is a total immune booster, because of it's unique ability to fight infections in different ways. It contains a chemical called echinacoside, which is similar to penicillin in that it's capable of killing a variety of organisms. Echinacea also helps stimulate the body's natural infection-fighting powers. It boosts the chemical shield that coats cells and protects them from germ invaders. It also stimulates many parts of the immune system. Echinacea increases the germ-eating cells called macrophages and boosts the body's production of defensive T-cells. When you feel a cold coming on, try some Echinacea to reduce symptoms and shorten the duration of the illness.

Echinacea is also a yeast fighter. Yeast-like fungi that normally inhabit the body, many times grows out of control. Echinacea helps control this by stimulating the body's white blood cells to destroy the organisms. One study found that women who used oral Echinacea along with medicated creams were much less likely to have repeat infections. For even more protection, try combining oral Echinacea with several servings a day of live-culture yogurt. The friendly bacteria in yogurt help restore the body's natural balance, making it harder for the yeast to thrive.

While breast feeding, we are told by Doctors, to drink plenty of water. Echinacea is also reputed to help relieve breast soreness during breast-feeding. You can use Echinacea tea as a substitute for some of the water. Drink a cup or two of tea a day.

Echinacea can help relieve joint pain and stiffness caused by rheumatoid arthritis. The same chemical in Echinacea that protects cells from infection also plays a role in keeping the joints lubricated. Taking Echinacea may actually make joint cartilage more slippery, so there's less friction and inflammation. It also helps the body remove irritating debris from sore joints.

Echinacea has been found to speed wound-healing by stimulating tissue-producing cells called fibroblasts.

You can even get the beneficial effects of Echinacea by applying it to the skin as a wash and using it to treat burns, sores, rashes, and other conditions.

Looking for Winter Color?
by Arzeen Hamir

Temperate weather zones can grow all year round.

Compared to its more succulent cousins like cabbage and broccoli, Kale is often regarded as a coarse vegetable. How untrue! The leaves are rich with Vitamin A & C, iron and calcium and the beautifully frilled Japanese varieties are an ornament in any garden and make a striking garnish on any dish.

Kale is one of the easier Breccias to grow since it doesn't need to head like cabbage and doesn't fall over, as Brussels sprouts plants tend to do. In fact, kale prefers a slightly lower fertility than cabbage since high nitrogen produces tender leaves that do not withstand frost well. Soil that has been manured and limed the previous year is perfect for growing kale. Like most winter vegetables, the taste of kale improves after the first frost.

Varieties

Most kales varieties belong to 1 of 4 types: Scotch (very curly leaves), Russian (flat leaf, serrated edges), Japanese (ornamental rosette types) and Other (Lacinato, walking stick etc). Here is a list of some of my favorite varieties:

*Dwarf Blue Curled Scotch squat plant, cold hardy, easy to mulch if temperatures drop, can be grown in a 5-gallon container.

*Winterbor F1 Scotch type, hybrid variety, very winter hardy

*Redbor a red Winterbor, extremely ornamental

*Red Russian - purple veins at beginning of season turn red in the fall, flat leaves probably most tender of all kale varieties and can be eaten fresh in salads

*Nagoya Japanese type, deep center, frilly comes in white or red, nice tasting

*Peacock Japanese type, deeply serrated leaves, large head, better for wet climates.

*Lacinato (Nero di Tosca) - Italian heirloom, dark blue-gray leaves, puckered & up to 2 ft long, hardy and ornamental

Pests

Few insect pests bother kale. Slugs and aphids can be hosed off easily on this sturdy plant. Imported cabbageworm seems to be the only pest that will do serious damage to kale. Handpick the worm or prevent the butterfly from laying its eggs by using a floating row cover. Otherwise, spray with BTK for an organic treatment.

Check the Garden Frost Chart if you'd like to check your frost dates.

In the autumn we begin to prepare for winter and freezing. Here are some initial steps.

Remove dead flowers and foliage. Never put diseased plants in the compost, as it will still remain alive and spread throughout the next years use.

After the first frost, cut all stems down to the ground level. You may leave ornamental grasses and other some plants that add winter interest.

Once the ground freezes, protect plants from root damage as a result of frost heaving with a thick mulch of leaves, hay or best yet, evergreen boughs.

Snow is the best insulator of all. It will keep the ground from freezing hard. With an added benefit, snow will also water the growth left underneath.

Protect your trees against winter sunscald, frost heaving and pest damage in the winter.

Sunscald occurs when sun warmed wood is killed by nighttime cold and frost. The damaged area becomes dry, brittle and sunken. It becomes very attractive to wood borers and diseases. Prevent sun scalding by wrapping the tree trunk with a white plastic tree guard or painting it up the the first scaffold branch. The best choice of paint products would be a white latex paint, diluted half and half with water.

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Cat Tails-Yes Cat Tails!
by Jill Manzoni

My grandmother and her grandmother before her, all knew the value of having cat tails. Do you?

My friends have always touted me to their friends, about my knowledge of little known "nature things". Remedies, cures, and aids to improve your life. I am about to tell you one of those.

Cat Tails , yes Cat Tails, the ones you see by any pond, marsh, or lake.

They are a long, brown, round, reeds, which are tapered to the top, and lead to white tufted seeds, that remind you of cotton.

Their growing season begins in the spring, they start out as hot dog shaped protuberances and soon are crowded with "feminine" flowers.

Almost every part of this plant all the way from the starchy roots, to its corn like buds and later the flour like pollen, is edible and extremely good for your health.

Here are the many ways to use Cat Tails.

Use the top, or head, as a torch. Soak it in tallow then ignite.

Burn around patio's to rid the area of mosquitoes and other insects. Add cat tails to campfire for same results.

In the old days, Cat Tails were used as insulation. It was built into the walls of the house and barn. They would also sew two blankets together, stuff them with cat tail down, and cross stitch it, to keep it in place. At the end of the season, they would cut the blankets open, sew the seed in the marshes and bogs, and reseed them for the next year.

Fill a large container full with water. Boil, roots. Mash just as you would potatoes. Remover fibers. Spread on cookie sheet, place in sun to dry. Put through grinder and make a flour. With this flour you can makes a tea to stop diarrhea, make a thick paste by adding water and spreading on poison ivy, rashes, burns, insect bites, stings, and even make a toothpaste. You can even use the fuzzy brown part of the stalk as a toothbrush.

When cuts open there is a sticky juice. This is used for cuts and abrasions, as a wonderful antiseptic and coagulant agent.

Combine CT flour and vegetable oil to make a conditioner for hair and scalp problems.

Chewing the fuzzy part will relieve nervousness and stress.

Cat Tail Flour can be used as a thickening agent in soups etc. It is known to be highly nutritious.

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These muffins are low fat, low cholesterol, no yeast, no sugar, and really taste great too! Hard for some to believe, but true! They are really good for you. Very high in nutrients, and is a natural prevention of nervousness and aids in stress reduction. In my previous article, Cat Tails, you can learn many more uses for them.

Items and ingredients needed to make Cat Tail (CT) muffins are:

Preheat oven to 400 Degrees
1 Cup CT flour (Made fresh or found in Health Food Stores)
1 Cup whole wheat flour
2 tsps. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
1 egg (We have free range hens)
1/4 Cup Sunflower oil
1/4 Cup honey (Bought from the man down the road)
1 1/2 Cups milk (We use vanilla or plain soy or rice milk)

Combine the dry ingredients.
Stir in the wet ingredients. Do not "over mix"
Grease muffin tins or use paper liners, fill 2/3 full.
Bake for 20 minutes.

Makes almost 2 dozen.

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Tomorrow's Harvest From Today's Waste
by Traute the BioGardener

Don't waste your time gardening until you have created a productive environment. Here are the preparations which Traute took to turn solid prairie clay into productive soil.

My Dream

With spring stalking in the darkness of a reluctant winter, I am eager to flee this seasonal detention. My feet ache to walk barefoot among the red clover that I pick and dry for teas and salves.

Now is the time to prepare for a new season of herbwalking. Anyone can enjoy this hobby and way of life for many. Wildcratfing is not limited; beginners can start by exploring their own backyards or acreage where many common wild edibles can be found. Everyone has dandelions somewhere in their yard, often mistaken for pesky week, but indeed, these mighty powerful herbs are highly valuable to the wildcrafter.

A good identification guide is a must; proper recognition is the key to a healthy foray. One of my favorite field guides is “ Peterson’s Field Guide Eastern/ Central Medicinal Plants”. This handy book supply’s a lot of color photos and covers many states.

A comfortable backpack provides storage for books, notes, a bottle of drinking water, a lunch, scissors to gather wild greens, plastic bags for seeds. Sometimes, a sturdy walking stick aids the eager all day hikers.

My first outing on our 5 acres was amazing. I found poke, burdock, sumac, thistle, mullein, red clover, horehound, violets, plantain and dandelion, of course! An herb lovers playground.

If your backyard has been converted and all the wild weeds replaced, find a safe, public park, forest or nearby woods. Be sure to get permission before exploring someone else’s property. Respect for the land and the owner is always appreciated.

I am fortunate to live by the VanDerhoef Memorial Forest, a 140 acre state park that was donated to the Missouri Conservation Department to preserve this natural area. Here, I learned to recognize some of the native weeds of my area: chickweed, cleavers, wild ginger, plantain, sassafras, spice bush, shepherds purse and wood sorrel. We are allowed to gather here, but not to dig. So, always check with the proper channels before harvesting in a public domain.

Wildcrafting for culinary or personal reasons should always be a safe, enjoyable experience. Free food taken from the wild needs to be thoroughly washed and inspected, especially if taken from roadsides, where chemicals have probably been used, I would not recommend this practice.

Greed is not apart of wildcrafting, so only take what you can use and save plenty for your fellow forager and enough for the plant to regain it’s strength.

Herbwalking unites us with the glory and wonders of nature, connects us to the past and allows us to sample some of God’s green goodies. Walk softly, hear the birds sing and take your time to fully feel the powers of the green!


Read more delightful articles by Sue Neitzel at The Grateful Gardener.com

Many think composting is difficult and unnecessary; after all, there is fertilizer and it is "right out of the bag!" Well avid believers in composting, can tell you the differences and it will be a full list. Let us just settle for the main three reasons to compost. 1. Think about tomatoes out of the garden versus from the grocer. The taste from composted vegetables and fruits, are much more rich and flavorful. 2. There are 85% more vitamins and nutrients. 3. No chemical additives (which kill nutrients and people).

Here is the easy way to know how to compost. Your goal is to build a compost pile, which provides the best possible conditions for the proliferation of those hard working micro herds which will turn your trash into treasure! These are micro sized organisms, which are found in rich soil or other compost piles. Helpful hint? Find the neighbor with the best compost pile, and ask to trade him a bucket or two of dirt. You can also find a commercial activator in bags at most garden supply stores. All they need to survive and thrive is a balanced diet, water, air, and warmth.

So what exactly can be thrown to our wonderful helpers? Anything of living origin can be (composted, but the quality and quantity of the materials you use affect the process and determine the nutrient value of the finished compost. Compost organisms require the correct proportion of carbon for energy and nitrogen for forming protein called the C/N ratio to function efficiently. If the C/N ratio is too high (excess carbon), decomposition slows down and nitrogen is depleted. Too Iowa C/N ratio (too much nitrogen) wastes nitrogen by letting it escape into the air, causing unpleasant odors, and into the water, creating pollution problems.

The ideal C/N ratio of 25:1 to 30:1 is readily reached by building your pile in alternating layers of high-carbon materials, such as sawdust, and high-nitrogen materials, such as fresh grass clippings. In general, high-carbon materials are brown or yellow and are dry and bulky. High-nitrogen materials tend to be green, moist, and often sloppy. If you find you have an abundance of either high- nitrogen or high-carbon wastes on hand, make the effort to locate ingredients that provide your micro herd with the right balance of nutrients.

Most organic materials supply a wide range of the other nutrients needed by compost organisms and plants. The greater the variety of materials you include in your compost, the greater your certainty of creating a nutritionally balanced product. Use additions of mineral-rich materials such as rock phosphate or greensand to tailor the nutrients in your compost to match the needs of your soil and plants.

Many new composters have found the odor, turns them off from the practice. Odor is a sign that you need to adjust your pH. You may use the "instant fix", lime to moderate pH and odors, but it is not the desirable way. Here is why, when you mix manure (found in the best piles) lime causes the release of nitrogen into the atmosphere n the form of ammonia. This reduces the nitrogen that the organisms, and plants need. Therefore, you get rot, which causes the odor.

As it is the calcium supplied by lime that you are looking for, replace lime use, with additional supplies of crushed eggshells, bone meal, or wood ashes (not "treated" woods-known carcinogens), which also provide potash. Like lime, wood ashes are alkaline and will raise the pH of your compost. Use wood ashes in moderation to avoid high pH levels that inhibit microorganism activity and limit nutrient uptake by some plants.

There are some organic materials to avoid when composting. Human and pet feces may carry disease organisms; meat scraps or bones, and fatty materials break down very slowly and attract animals. Some wastes are contaminated with high levels of heavy metals, pesticide residues, or other highly toxic substances. If your composting plan includes industrial waste products, obtain a complete laboratory analysis for possible contaminants before you add such waste products to your pile.

All living organisms need water, but too much moisture drives out air, drowns the pile, and washes away nutrients. Good compost is about as damp as a moist sponge. There are several ways to control moisture levels in compost pile. Build your pile on a site that is well drained. If necessary, begin your compost pile with a bottom layer of sand or gravel to make sure the pile never has puddles. Sprinkle each layer with a watering can or garden hose as you construct the pile. The composting process requires water; check the moisture level every few days and, if necessary, add water when you turn your compost. Layer very wet, sloppy materials (fruit wastes, etc.) with absorbent ingredients such as sawdust or shredded dry leaves. Turn your pile to release excess moisture that prevents proper heating. Protect your pile from the weather. Compost in a covered bin, or place a layer of hay or straw or even a tarp over your pile. Shape your pile to work with weather conditions. In humid climates, a pile with a rounded, or convex, top repels excess water; a sunken or concave, top lets the pile collect needed water in dry climates.

Living organisms need air to survive. Supplying enough air to all parts of a compost pile to encourage thorough decomposition is perhaps the key to successful composting. Frequent turning is the most straightforward way to do this, but there are other aerating techniques to use in addition to or even in place of turning: Build a base of coarse material such as brush or wood chips under your pile to allow air penetration from below. Shred leaves, hay, and garden debris before composting. Use materials such as paper and grass clippings sparingly, because they tend to form impermeable mats when wet. Insert sticks into the pile when building it, then pull them out later to open air passages. You can also poke holes in the compost with a garden fork or crowbar. Bury perforated drainpipe at intervals in a passive compost pile as an excellent way to improve aeration. Sunflower stalks and straw also conduct air into the pile. However, do not use cornstalks, as they do not hollow out and decay properly. Limit the height and width of the pile to 51 to 6 feet to avoid compression. There is no limit on length.

Too large a compost pile interferes with aeration, but a minimum size of 3 feet in each dimension is needed in order for heating to occur. Given the proper C/N ratio, moisture, and aeration, your compost will heat up even in cold winter weather. A hot pile can reach temperatures of 160°F but will produce satisfactory results if it cooks along at about 120°F. Northern composters sometimes insulate their piles with hay bales or leaves to help composting continue throughout the winter.

The type of structure used for composting can vary greatly, depending on the materials available, the needs of the gardener, and the climate. A structure is not essential, but can be used you choose to hide your pile. They should be made of wood (non treated), plastic, concrete, bricks, wire, stones, or any durable weatherproof material.

Good luck, and may your organisms turn into huge micro herds!

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Houseplants bring nature indoors. They can be an art form in our homes. If we water and feed them correctly and place them in a suitable location, they should be free of insects and healthy most of the time. However, even the best-cared-for houseplants are sometimes attacked by pests that fly inside or come to us from the store we purchased our plants from.


Here are some sure signs that we have problems. Leaves have a sticky substance on them. These may be the signs of mealy-bugs which are round, white, and fuzzy, and usually hide on leaf stems or in the axils; aphids are small, soft-bodied, reddish, green, or black insects clustered on new growth; scale is a hard, oval-or round-shelled insect attached to stems or leaves; or whiteflies, a small fluttering insects that feed on the undersides of leaves. If the leaves are striped and covered with fine whitish webs, this is an indication of red spider mites. All common houseplant pests suck plant juices, causing stunted or twisted growth. You must take immediate action to stop the damage, or the plant will eventually die. Steps in curing your pest problems:

ISOLATE THE INFESTED PLANT
Regularly inspect your plants. Locate and eradicate problems before they are out of control. Move the infested plant well away from other plants to keep the insects from traveling from one to the next. Always wash your hands so that you don’t spread the pests, then inspect the rest of your plants.

WASH THE PLANT
Remove as many insects as possible with a strong stream of water. In the case of clinging scale insects, you might have to use a soapy cloth or toothbrush to wipe the plant clean. If the plant is small enough, it is even more effective to submerge the foliage in water. Fill a bucket or sink with lukewarm water. Then place a rag, or a piece of paper over the top of the pot to hold the soil in place. Next, with your fingers spread around the plant’s stem, turn the plant upside down, and swish the leaves in water for two or three minutes.

SPRAY THE PLANT
Spray the foliage with a diluted spray made of a natural soap such as ivory. Be sure to cover the entire plant, wetting both sides of the leaves so the soap comes in direct contact with the pests. Don’t spray in sunlight, and again, be sure to let the plant dry in a shaded location. Mealy-bugs and spider mites may require a second spraying a few days later. For delicate plants, try dabbing the pests with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, which will kill the insects by dehydrating their them. Rinse the plant with water afterward.

REMAIN VIGILANT
Keep the treated plant in isolation for a few weeks, check frequently for of the pest population. As new generations hatch, you may need to repeat the steps outlined here. Persistence should eventually result in a healthy plant that is ready to return to its decorative role in your home. To prevent future infestations, remember to quarantine all new plants for a month or so.
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Copyright © JILL Manzoni. This article may not be resold, reprinted, or redistributed for compensation of any kind without prior written permission from the author.